ISTANBUL

lunch-Istanbul

Istanbul.  After five amazing days drinking in all the excitement of the vibrant city of Istanbul and enjoying some of the best food I’ve ever tasted, I thought “it can’t get any better than this,” and then we went to Ihsan’s mother’s house for lunch.  Eating crispy cheese-filed borek on the rooftop was just the start of an unforgettable afternoon and a fitting climax for a week that was truly a dream come true.

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Istanbul is an amazing city – exciting in so many ways.  The visuals are breathtaking, whether on a peaceful cobblestone street; visiting the grand palaces and other sites that take you back thousands of years…

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…or in the colorful excitement of the bazaars, where you can find the best shopping imaginable.  Luckily we didn’t have too much time at the market or I would have needed an extra suitcase!

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istanbul-grand-bazaar

Istanbul-mozaic-lanterns

The natural scenery is gorgeous. Istanbul is the only city in the world that spans two continents – Europe and Asia – and the Bosphorus strait divides the two.

Istanbul-waterway

Traveling and exploring a wonderful new place with close friends and family is one of my favorite things to do, but this trip to Turkey had an added layer of excitement – it was designed to be a “once-in-a-lifetime experience” – a private culinary tour of Istanbul with three of Boston’s culinary icons – Chef Barbara Lynch, Chef Ana Sortun, and Ihsan Gurdal of Formaggio Kitchen.  This 6-day tour for eight was an auction item that my friend Sara bid on and won at an event to raise money for The Barbara Lynch Foundation. (More about the foundation to come). There’s too much to share in one sitting, so here’s some highlights with a bit about the city, the food, and our iconic traveling companions.

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Chef Barbara and Chef Ana gave us some hands on cooking lessons at the Istanbul Culinary Institute.  We made red lentil kofte – the dough is a mixture of bulgar wheat and lentils, cooked and then shaped into quenelles and topped with pomegranate seeds and herbs – so good!

red-lentil-kofte-istanbul

We also learned a recipe for lamb-stuffed Turkish dumplings, called manti.  The little dumplings are toasted, then boiled, then served floating in butter, tomato, and yogurt –  and sprinkled with the quintessential turkish trio of spices – dried spearmint, maras pepper, and sumac.  You can bet I will be making these again!

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A bit about the remarkable people we travelled with – Barbara Lynch is a legend in the culinary world – a James Beard award-winning chef and a Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef who owns and runs eight successful restaurants in Boston, including No.9 Park, Menton, and The Butcher Shop.  Her success is self-made and her story is even more inspirational when you learn of the hardship and poverty she suffered growing up in South Boston. It’s not surprising that her foundation is dedicated to helping Boston’s youth by providing education and support to build life skills. On a personal note, Barbara has a disarming wit – she kept us all laughing all week long.

how-to-make-turkish-manti

Chef Ana Sortun is also a James Beard award-winning chef. She owns and runs celebrated Cambridge, MA restaurants Oleana and Sofra, and she has a brand new meze restauarant in Somerville, MA called Sarma. All of her restaurants are inspired by her love of the food of the eastern Mediterranean region – especially Turkish food.  She’s incredibly knowledgable and passionate about the subject.  She returns to Turkey several times a year to dig deeper into the culture and the cuisine of the region.

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On our first day of the tour, Ana’s friend Musa Dagdeviren served us an unforgettable 35-course lunch at his restaurant Ciya Kebap.

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Ana describes Musa as a culinary anthropologist. His mission is to discover and rescue old authentic Turkish recipes from obscurity.

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When I peered over the counter at his restaurant, I saw some of the most delicious-looking foods I’ve ever laid eyes on – pot after simmering pot of wholesome, rustic comfort food – the kind of dishes that your grandmother and great grandmother from the old country would have waiting for you when you arrive for a visit, like these stuffed grape leaves stewed with onions and yogurt.

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…these stuffed quince with lamb, onions, and raisins.

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Here’s how scrumptious it looked on my plate, smothered with onions and sprinkled with nigella and sesame seeds.

stuffed-quince

I couldn’t get enough of this very simple and incredibly delicious dish of grated radish with egg.

radish-egg-dish-ciya-kebap

..and these lamb-stuffed kofte, which Ana says are nearly impossible to make – a true art form

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stuffed-kofte

I started out telling you about lunch at Ihsan’s mom’s house.  Now here’s some background about Ihsan.  Ihsan Gurdal was born and raised in Istanbul.  Tall and charismatic are the first two adjectives that I would use to describe him.  His fascinating life story includes playing volleyball for the Turkish team at the 1976 Olympics, which eventually led him to Cambridge to coach the Harvard Volleyball team.  After retiring from Harvard he pursued another longtime interest – food – and took ownership of the Cambridge specialty food store called Formaggio Kitchen that features handcrafted cheeses, artisan meats and specialty foods, and which he has grown to be one of the leading retailers of gourmet foods in the country. Ihsan and his wife Valerie have since opened two other Formaggio Kitchen stores – one in Boston and a smaller one in New York.

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Ihsan was our guide for the Grand Bazaar and the spice market. To give some perspective, the Grand Bazaar has more than 3,000 shops with more than 250,000 visitors a day, so we were incredibly lucky that Ihsan knew the best places to find the most wonderful items – such as freshly roasted turkish coffee, turkish delight, and fabulous spices, many of which he imports for his shops.  A highlight of our trip was a home-cooked lunch with Ihsan’s mother and sister.

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After assorted hors d’oeuvres, including the heavenly borek we enjoyed on the roof, the first course was a rich, meaty, slow-cooked veal-neck soup.  Simple, savory and delicious.

Istanbul-veal-neck-soup

What took it to an even high level were the assortment of spices for sprinkling on top – salt, pepper, oregano, and maras pepper.

veal neck soup toppings

After the soup, Ihsan’s mother and sister Zeynep starting bringing out the hot food. Two of my favorites were the Sultan’s Delight and the Lady’s Thighs. Turkish cuisine is know for it’s many delicious varieties of meatballs or kofte and Lady’s thighs fall into this category.  What makes them unique is the mix of rice with the beef. The result is a very tender meatball.  They are then seasoned, coated with flour and fried, so they are have a crisp coating on the outside and are nice and tender inside.

ladys-thighs

Sultan’s Delight is a legendary Ottoman dish of tender stewed lamb served over creamy eggplant puree. It is said to have been a favorite of the sultans when trying to impress their most important dinner guests. The dish we enjoyed had a beautiful smokiness, which was achieved by flame broiling the eggplants to the point of burning the skin before pureeing.

ladys-thighs

The dish that surprised me the most and the one I can’t wait to make at home was a fresh simple salad of soft delicate purslane leaves with a creamy yogurt dressing. The Turks know to use yogurt in the most wonderful ways. Simple and perfect!

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Ihsan’s mother totally charmed us with her warmth and hospitality – she fed us like we were sultans, entertained us with her colorful stories.  And when it was time to say goodbye, she offered us the keys to her home next time we come to Istanbul.

lunch-istanbul

I will definitely be back – can’t wait!

Below are some helpful links. Stay tuned for more about Istanbul in future posts, including great recipes and some new tricks I learned from our expert chefs/traveling companions.

The People

The Barbara Lynch Foundation
Barbara Lynch Gruppo – all of her restaurants
Ana Sortun – about Ana and links to all of her restaurants
Formaggio Kitchen – Ihsan and Valerie Gurdal and their specialty shops
South End Formaggio Kitchen

Recommended Restaurants

Ciya Kebap – where we had an unforgettable 35-course lunch
Asmali Cavit
LoKanta Maya
Istanbul Culinary Institute - they have a lovely restaurant, too
Kantin
Mikla Restaurant - also has a stunning view across the Bosphorus.
Munferit

 

 

 

 

23 Responses to “ISTANBUL”

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  1. Cheryl says:

    What a phenomenal adventure, so beautifully captured here in words and images. The fact that the trip also supported such a worthwhile cause makes it all the more remarkable.

  2. Meryl says:

    Lisa, your photos made me feel like I was touring Istanbul with you. Can’t wait to see some of the recipes inspired by this incredible trip!!

  3. margaret szerlip says:

    Looks like an amazing trip…love the picture and the stories. Now we want the recipes!

  4. Deb says:

    Congrats on going and what fun you must have had! The food is so exotic and looks delicious.

  5. Lisa, this is a beautiful post. What an incredible experience and so perfect for your interests. The photos are spectacular and the writing is so evocative. I loved it, really well done. Can’t wait for more!

  6. Allison Donelan says:

    Lisa, you hit a Grand Slam here, just like our Champs! Gorgeous photos, gorgeous writing. Think I gained a few pounds just from reading. Thanks and Kudos!

  7. Ronny K says:

    Great post, definitely made me hungry…. thanks for sharing!

  8. Zeynep Gürdal says:

    Dear Lisa,

    Thank you for this wonderful coverage of Chef Anna’s and Chef Barbara’s Tour in my homwtown guided by my brother Ihsan. The pictures and the write up is amazing it makes one feel living in a real time multivision tour. It was a true treat and great pleasure for me and my mom to host you, your family and the wonderful group for drinks at my mom’s house and lunch at my house. I hope we can meet again thank you for your wonderful energy and your amazing writing and photography talent in capturing and projecting wonderful moments and sharing these wonderful moments with all of us. With my warmest love and gratititude. All my heart felt very best to you and your family and your three wonderful boys.

  9. Chris Crooks says:

    Wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! What an amazing experience. Once in a lifetime. I am so glad I was able to share it with you through your words and pictures!!! Thanks for sharing

  10. Louise Yarvis says:

    What fabulous pictures of your exciting trip! I can’t wait to get all the recipes! You have me hooked! Thanks so much for sharing,Louise

  11. syb says:

    Hi Lisa,
    Got to sit down with Turkish nibbles from Formaggio’s – limon bahgeri pogaga’s – leek, feta and dill jalapeno – while reading your delectable post! A delightful match. Now I am craving a Turkish coffee!
    Love your postings,
    xo
    Syb

  12. Loved the photographs. I lived in Istanbul for about 7 years and your post brought back some wonderful memories for me.

  13. Laurie Davidson says:

    My daughter lives in Istanbul and will be coming home for xmas. I asked her about bringing home some spices and she said most of the spice shops are tourist traps; not different from what we can get here. I live in Cambridge so probably can get good ones at Formaggio but wondered if there is a special spice shop you can recommend. Thank

    • Hi Laurie – Yes I do have a suggestion for you. If your daughter can find this spice shop in the spice market, its called Sen Baharat. It’s wonderful. Tell your daughter to bring you some fresh Urfa Pepper, which is beautiful oily rich and wonderful. You can use it in place of black pepper. I also recommend the Sumac and the Maras pepper, sometimes called Aleppo pepper. I hope that helps. Lisa

  14. Gitty Schacher says:

    Lisa – thank you so much for the restaurant recommendations! We went last night to LoKanta Maya, where we enjoyed their outstanding dishes that so effortless succeed to combine traditional Mediterranean cooking with contemporary preparation and presentation of their food. We are very much looking forward tonight to another restaurant of your list: the Mikla Restaurant. I also bought already some Urfa pepper.

Trackbacks

  1. […] told you about my culinary tour of Istanbul in my last post and I said that the recipes would be forthcoming.  Manti is a great one to start […]

  2. […] actually had the occasion to invent an official drink, until now.    In honor of our recent trip to Istanbul, Lisa asked me to concoct a drink that has a Turkish theme.  After much deliberation about a name, […]



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